Confused thoughts

We are in Damascus! We both had the sensation to be in a 'real' city when we arrived, but none of us could actually then describe what that means. The suqs of this city are ancient and run by a frenzy that I now suppose being typical of the whole Middle East world.

We shared a taxi with an Iraqi father and daughter on the way from Amman to Damascus, and she (Rasha) told us their family history and together with it the history of a nation and of the region of the world we are in at the moment. It has been like a punch in the stomach. Some of the things she said about politics and dynamics of relationships between countries in the Middle East have opened up for me a whole new universe of possibilities (unfortunately though, none of them is optimistic).

It took me a while (and a very posh hotel) to recover from yesterday's mosque experience in Damascus. As a woman (not only turists), unless you are already wrapped up in a potato-sack, you not only need to wear decent clothes and cover your head (fair enough), but you have to put on top a sort of blanket and cover your head so as not to show even the smallest portion of hair (some women cover their face COMPLETELY, and I still struggle t understand how they actually see!). To be honest, I think it is a humiliating experience, especially seeing the man counterpart walking around normally without any hassle.
On the other hand, Damascus seems to me to be very liberated, so I haven't really worked out this contrast (will I?). I guess for some reason I thought I could fit in this reality in my cathegories, but I can't, so I'll have togo through the painful process of creating new ones. Or get rid of cathegories all together.

Our main problem here was the fact that, contrary to Jordan, very few people speak English, but after having payed half a kilo of nuts the equivalent of a dinner for two, we are now becoming professional arabic speakers (wishing..!).

Sand castles and shooting stars

We pretty much exhausted Amman after a couple of days, and the dive we managed to book into wasn't endearing itself to us, so we headed South for the desert and the Petra. Entering the ancient site of the lost city you really get a feel what it must have been like for Harrison Ford filming the third Indiana Jones film. Complete with theme tune we had to fend off the postcard hawkers and donkey-ride guys and dodge the merciless horse and cart drivers, carrying their fat american cargoes. That said, it is definitely worth it behold the incredible site of the Treasury (the famous bit) 50 metres high and carved out of the rock face, it is a worldly wonder. The best bit though was prob the hike up to the Monastery and the climb up over it. Once past the ferrel bedouin girl that guarded the mount we watched the sun set over the site while taking tea (and vodka) with Abed, another Bedouin, which provided a good opportunity to actually talk to someone and learn about their culture.

With the taste for desert life, the next stop was Wadi Rum. We toured Lawrence of Arabia country, climbed on it, and spent the night in the desert under the stars. Once fed and entertained by our Bedouin hosts, we decided to brave the great wilderness and lay on our mattresses outside the camp. The night sky was breath-taking and we fell asleep counting shooting stars (i saw more). The moon was a little intrusive, but we managed all the same.

Technical update

Guys we have beaten the system and we are now back online and uncensored! We have also figured out how to let you all post comments - so fill your boots

One week after

Amman.

Jordan's capital hectically breathes life out of its polluted and histerical lungs. A city of immigrants, an ugly but fascinating passing-through ground where i felt home today, coming back here after just one week of travelling. Jordan is so very different from all I have seen so far, even north Africa. People sometimes (more often if you go off the beaten track) do not speak English or any other European language, but are still willing to help you, or give you a lift, or they simply cry at you a WELCOME. When I say people, it's always men, since I still haven't got a chance to have even the smallest conversation with a woman, apart from a very young beduin girl in Petra, but that was more an argument than a conversation (yes, I AM ashamed!). Beduins, btw, seem to be a thing on its own and we had a chance to get to know them a bit better on two different occasions, in Petra on the highest tent on top of the monastery and in Wadi Rum's desert. Speaking of which, I GOT TO DRIVE A JEEP IN THE DESERT, thanks to a crazy beduin, but this is another story..

salaam alaykum!

Amman seems a friendly place indeed! "Welcome to Jordan" abounds on the streets of the bustling city: from the would-be-mother-figure hotel manageress, charging a "good price" for a room with no hot water or lock on the door, to the young men of the street cordially informing us across the pavement just how much they liked the look of paola's "husband". We were accosted by two such lively fellows while perched high atop the Roman theatre in the downtown city area. Na'theen insisted on taking our photo (to follow) and we were happy to oblige. Communication can prove tricky but you nearly always end up in about the right place, eventually.

It was the night before Christmas....

well that's what it feels like, and i can tell you i'm very excited - we're leaving tomorrow! By way of figuring out how this blog thing works, i shall leave you with a taste of the leaving party - i'll put up a link to the rest of them soon...

here they are

Venezia!

We have been in Venice for the weekend. I was amazed by the beauty of the city. I have been in Venice many times, but this time it gained in beauty. I think living in London for five years has enhanced my capability of perceiving the beautiful.