Leeds is nothing like Lebanon

Hey, sorry for the radio silence, but we have been charging round northern India (actually fairly slowly) but have been disinclined to blog while we absorb the sub-continent madness. But just to polish off the ME while it is still fresh(ish) in my mind...

After crossing the border with Syria we travelled to Baalbek in the beautiful Bekaa valley, Lebanon's wine growing region. As well as housing perhaps the most impressive set of Roman/Greek ruins in the ME, the area is also famous for being the home of Hezbollah. The first impression of Lebanon we got was of tanks, heavily armed soldiers and checkpoints. That remains throughout a lot of the country, particularly in Beirut where you have to be careful where you point your camera. Lebanon is very different from Syria. There is tight security, but people are free to speak their minds and exercise democratic choice. From architecture to language, there is a heavy French influence in Lebanon, with which much of the Christian population associates so as to distinguish itself from the Arabic culture, so it was refreshing for us to be able to communicate beyond our usual (pitiful) attempts in Arabic.

In stark contrast to the close security pressures of the country, the people we met were open, generous and extremely hospitable. We were lucky enough to be taken in by one such family when we found ourselves unexpectedly spending a night in a town called Zahle on our way to Beirut. An enquiry as the whereabouts of somewhere for lunch turned into us spending 2 nights with the Bilezikjian family on our way into and out of the capital. Generous to a fault, we really enjoyed being able to talk to Joelle and family beyond our usual bar-room conversations. We were made to feel very much at home and part of the family for the duration of our brief visit.

We went on to visit Laura down in Saida in Southern Lebanon and spent a few nights in Beirut. The streets of Beirut throb to the sound of techno and house music, packed in the evenings with young people out to enjoy themselves in a very hedonistic euro-style party. In the end, we were left with the impression of a country under a false calm. People told us of their fear of resumption of war with Israel, and in Beirut you gain a sense of the fragility of the peace that exists. But the people of Lebanon do not seem willing to succumb to the threats of violence and go about their lives determined to make the most of their circumstances, enjoying the lifestyle of a unique corner of the region.